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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.